Trinidad > History > Mo’ Hotta Mo’ Betta
It is said that the hotter the climate, the spicier the cuisine. The Caribbean, particularly Trinidad and Tobago, has been famous for its palatable, well-seasoned food but even that is not enough for many spicy-food aficionados who further seek pain and pleasure in the form of hot peppers (chiles). A meal without accompanying peppers—fresh, pickled or roasted pods, hot sauce or chutney, can be described as tasteless, missing something or simply bland, for the typical “firelip” even if everyone else thinks it is perfect. It is common to hear the experts talk about a pepper being “bitter” which is simply pepper jargon for “hot.” Your food could be the best in the world but for the addict, without the pepper on the side, that could make the difference between mediocrity and excellence. There is even the machismo of who can eat the hottest pepper without wincing, breaking a sweat or making the slightest audible hiss. Countries have become viciously embroiled in the battle for who can cultivate the world’s hottest chile. The debate has shifted periodically from China, Mexico, Jamaica, the United States, Trinidad and most recently, to northeastern India with its lethal Bih Jolokia (literally meaning “poison chile”), officially punching in at over one million SHU (Scoville Heat Units) and crowned “The Hottest Pepper in the World” by the Guinness World Records, 2006. Locally, there seems to be a combination of the need for heat and flavour behind the addiction for hot food. Our own very special, Congo peppers are in constant demand domestically and for export, to the point of farmers having developed their own open-pollinated strains such as ‘Faria’, which tries to give the best organoleptic profile to consumers and customers abroad. Congo has adapted geographically to Trinidad and Tobago with its distinct pod shape, size, colour, aroma and flavour. Similarly, Habaneros from Central America, Goat pepper from Bahamas, Scotch Bonnet from Jamaica and Bonney pepper from Barbados have also shown characteristics typical to their geographic location. Congo peppers seem to lead overall in heat and flavour, often described as having the unique fruity aroma of mangoes and peaches, when crushed or processed. The large group of peppers famous for their deadly heat is classified as Capsicum chinense (pronounced chi-nen-see), which includes Congo, Habanero, Scotch Bonnet (not native to Trinidad and therefore not cultivated), Red Savina, West Indies Red and certainly Bih Jolokia. The Caribbean varieties of C. chinense are thought to have originated from South America through the migration and movement of the then indigenous people, the Caribs and Arawaks. Over time, seeds were carried to other islands northwards, with each variety adapting to its environment. Pods began to take specific shapes and colours while plants developed patterns of bearing and yields. Congo peppers are either red or yellow with mutants of brown, called Chocolate Congo, all having large, lobed, fleshy pods. Exporters of fresh peppers would often clamour for green peppers or those just turning ripe, even specifying dark green over light green when available. Hot sauce and mash manufacturers take fully red or yellow depending on batch colour. The hard-core “pepperhead” buying a chicken roti or doubles would demand, “Just make sure it real hot!” The pelau or dhal-and-rice eater wants it “bitter” and the “bumpier the skin the better.” Bumpiness of the pods is indicative of lethally hot peppers as opposed to smoothness. Probably the most notorious but hardly popular pepper in Trinidad, is the elusive ‘Seven Pot’, typically red, bumpy and with a hook at the tip. It has never been farmed on a large scale and there are very few sources of pure, original ‘Seven Pot’, but some that come very close in heat level and appearance. Maybe this variety, if purified can compete with Bih Jolokia for top honours in SHU rating one day. Presently, there have been attempts to develop a consistent strain through CARDI and the Sugar Cane Feeds Center in Longdenville, resulting in the cultivar, ‘Scorpion’. Which normal person would want to eat a pepper that is so hot it can cause major physical discomfort and digestive damage? Capsaicin is the main substance in peppers that accounts for all its burn potential and is sold in the extracted form of Capsicum Oleoresin, which is in high demand in the food manufacturing, pharmaceutical and the defence industries. Certain peppers are ideally suited to such specialised aspects of manufacture and are highly versatile beyond basic consumption. Capsaicin and related compounds are most concentrated in the placenta to which the seeds are attached and that is the hottest part of a pepper, not the seeds themselves. We might never attain such levels of production to compete with countries in Asia, Central and South America, or even the U.S., but we can certainly capitalize on the markets that are demanding Congo peppers and it processed products, year-round. Trinidad has been successful in developing one other unique cultivar of C. chinense to commercial levels. Strangely, it does not have the kicking heat, colours or shape of Congo, but presents a much milder nudge with a highly fragrant aroma. This makes Trinidad Seasoning Pepper versatile in almost any aspect of seasoning food or cooking ethnic cuisine. Unfortunately, it has been also given the misnomer, “pimento” which is a different pepper and species entirely. Culinary professionals and enthusiasts use the proper name, in recognition that this magical pepper exists in its purest form in Trinidad only, and has now surpassed Congo peppers in price on the domestic market. They are beautiful, small, elongated pods found only in light green turning red (the only two colours) when ripe. A stroll through the grocery will display the various types of peppers available, some are indigenous and some are foreign varieties, locally grown or imported. A trip to the market, will give the truest picture of what farmers grow with a spectrum of colour, size, shape and price. Almost always, each vendor will have “the most bitter” or “the best” peppers. Ultimately, Trinis like it hot; we seek the endorphin-rush from capsaicin—an incomprehensible kind of self-inflicted masochism that often involves watery eyes, runny nose, breathing problems, excessive salivation, dripping sweat and intense burning sensations that just feel so right with food. Scientifically, it is thought that people who eat hot peppers look younger and have a better sense of humour than those who aren’t so daring. In the words of an online hot sauce retailer: “Mo’ Hotta, Mo’ Betta!”
Trinidad Congo Pepper Sauce
Six (6) large Congo peppers (any colour) without stems
Four (4) cloves Garlic
One (1) medium onion
Quarter-cup of wet yellow mustard or two (2) tablespoons of mustard powder.
One (1) tablespoon Salt (to taste)
Half-cup lime juice
Half-cup vinegar
A couple leaves of Chadon Beni (optional)
A few leaves of Basil (optional)
Use gloves if necessary when handling hot peppers. Blend all ingredients in a mini-chopper or blender. Add extra salt, mustard or garlic depending on the flavour desired. Extra liquid (water or vinegar) may be added if too thick. Pour mixture into a sanitized bottle, preferably with a plastic lid. No refrigeration necessary, though it preserves the colour and flavour better.